Economy

Herat's silk industry offers women opportunity to work outside home

By Emran

The silk industry is providing a valuable opportunity for hundreds of women in Zindajan district, Herat province, western Afghanistan, to continue working even amid restrictions in Afghanistan. By raising silkworms and processing silk, these women are earning an income and supporting their families. [Emran/Salaam Times]

HERAT -- The silk industry is providing a valuable opportunity for hundreds of women in Zindajan district, Herat province, to continue working amid major restrictions in Afghanistan.

By raising silkworms and processing silk, these women are earning an income and supporting their families.

Silk production is an ancient Afghan industry that is common in the western part of the country, especially in Zindajan.

Herat Women's Silk Production Co., a private entity in Herat that purchases silk cocoons from female cultivators to be processed and woven into fabric, has been the reason for the silk industry's growth in Herat.

A woman weaves silk in Zindajan district, Herat province, July 31. [Emran/Salaam Times]

A woman weaves silk in Zindajan district, Herat province, July 31. [Emran/Salaam Times]

Two women process cocoons to turn them into silk thread in Zindajan district, Herat province, on July 31. [Emran/Salaam Times]

Two women process cocoons to turn them into silk thread in Zindajan district, Herat province, on July 31. [Emran/Salaam Times]

Some 750 women work in the silk industry in Zindajan district, said CEO Mariam Sheikh.

"Hundreds of other women also are employed during the silkworm raising season. Women in the silk industry have great skills and are behind its growth," she said.

"All phases of silk production in Herat are done by women ... from raising silkworms and processing cocoons to turning them into silk thread, dyeing [thread], and weaving silk fabric and clothes," she added.

The women raise silkworms in villages, feeding them mulberry leaves until they cocoon. The cocoons are then boiled in hot water for silk thread.

Women weave the thread in the silk production shops in Zindajan district to produce clothes, scarves and fabric.

Supporting household economy

Seema Saee, 23, has been producing silk clothes and scarves for almost six years now.

She makes 150 AFN ($1.69) for weaving each silk scarf. Her daily income is 300 ($3.38) AFN, she said.

"I support my family with the money I make here," Saee said. "My father had little income this year because of unemployment and drought. I covered nearly all the expenses of a seven-member family with my income."

"I am happy that we have created employment for ourselves in a remote district. By standing on our own feet, we are not a burden on our families," she added.

The silk business was very good in the past, she said, but her income has declined in the last year from falling silk sales and a halt in silk exports, Saee noted.

Mariam Osmani, 50, who has also been weaving silk for the last six years in Zindajan district, says she earns more than 200 AFN ($2.26) each day from weaving silk.

She said she is happy about the work opportunity during such difficult times.

"I am the breadwinner of a family of five," Osmani said. "My husband is old and can't work, and my oldest son is disabled. I cover my family's expenses with the money I make by weaving silk."

Efforts are under way to resume the export of silk, said Nargis Hashemi, director of the Herat Women's Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Silk exports from Herat have largely stopped since last August.

"Many countries are interested in Afghan silk, and we are trying to find ways to export it," she said.

"Silk clothes used to be exported via international commercial flights. But with the halt and reduction in international flights, the export of silk has stopped."

"Once exports resume, the silk industry will flourish again and will help improve women's businesses in the silk industry."

Escape from home

Women in the silk industry work up to eight hours a day outside their homes.

Zheela Qaderi, 25, a resident of Zindajan district who dyes silk threads, said that she is happy to be able to work outside her house.

"I got a bachelor’s degree in science from Herat University, but despite all my efforts, I could not get a job in the government or the private sector," she said. "Now I work in the silk industry and support my family who supported me for years while I was a student."

"It is a tragedy when women are trapped in their homes and cannot go outside," she added. "Like men, women are talented and capable and can contribute to the development of society."

Poverty would be alleviated much faster in society if women were allowed to work outside their homes, Qaderi said.

Sultana Mohammadi, 48, a resident of Zindajan district who works at Herat Women's Silk Production Co. packing silk threads, is the only breadwinner of her family.

Without her work, her family would not have another source of income, she said.

"How would we live if I stay home and do not work? The economic problems of most poor families that are facing severe hunger would be addressed if female members of the family were allowed to work."

"In the current situation where men can't find work, women should not stay home and watch their children starve," Mohammadi said. "Women in rural areas can work by participating in areas such as agriculture, animal husbandry and chicken farming."

Locking women up at home and keeping them unemployed will only worsen the economic crisis and poverty in society, she said.

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Afghanistan has numerous opportunities in the industrial sector. In addition to raising silkworms and making the necessary items from them, Karakul Sheep’s skin was also one of the significant industries in Afghanistan, which, unfortunately, is extremely vulnerable and even vanished with the advent of civil wars. In addition to the silk and karakul skin industry, another famous industry in Afghanistan was carpet weaving and Afghan carpets were very famous all over the world. The civil war hit this sector too. The production of Afghan carpets was severely damaged and the carpets that were made and produced in Afghanistan are exported to other countries in the name of Pakistan and Iran. Before the wars, Afghans were hard-working, without relying on foreign NGOs and even their government they formed a life for themselves, and they were far different than now. They were creative and were engaged in different industries. Unfortunately, the war and foreign interference have destroyed all Afghan industries and made Afghans poor and beggars. Hope one day the war and interventions in Afghanistan would come to an end and Afghans themselves would be able to take part in rebuilding and reconstruction of their country.

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The silk industry is Knotted to the history and culture of Afghanistan. During ancient times, the Silk Route was passing through Afghanistan, which was bridging China to the Middle East and Europe. I am happy that this industry is again climbing in Afghanistan. This project is also important because besides reviving the brilliant history of Afghanistan, it helps women to earn money and support their families. The dire economic situation of Afghanistan is at a level that even the smallest project has an impact and play a significant role in people's lives and livelihood. Let’s hope for increasing and expanding the coverage area of these projects.

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The silk industry is one of the oldest industries in Afghanistan, such small projects should be encouraged, expanded, and for their income-generation nature, they should be operated continuously. Afghans have suffered a lot and Afghanistan has been destroyed. Afghanistan was destroyed once by the Soviet forces and then by its neighbors, especially Pakistan. Thereafter, the United States unjustifiably attacked Afghanistan and murdered tens of thousands of Afghans. With the support and cooperation of these NGOs, I am sure that many families would come back to work in carpet weaving, silk making, and the agricultural sector as before. The youths won’t take the risk of going abroad to get a job, rather they would stay at home, and they would have better schools and live styles. Reading an article about silk here made me happy. If foreign aid organizations expand their overage areas and cooperate and operate in other provinces of Afghanistan in the field of silk production, that would be a good job and achievement for Afghan families.

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It is said that rivers are formed from the joining of drops, and seas are formed from rivers. Small projects should be encouraged, scaled up, and continuously built into income-generating projects. Afghans have suffered a lot, and Afghanistan has been destroyed. Soviet troops destroyed Afghanistan, then its neighbors, especially Pakistan. After that, NATO invaded it unjustly and killed thousands of Afghans. Now the Taliban are back, and Afghanistan has started to deteriorate. The international community should put pressure on Pakistan to control the Taliban. The Taliban is a product of a jihadist madrassa of Pakistan, which can accept anything on the order of Pakistan, but only on the condition that pressure is put on Pakistan. Pakistan should not be given money, but economic sanctions should be imposed on it, forcing it to stop supporting terrorists.

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The silk industry is one of the oldest industries in Afghanistan. Our grandmothers and mothers used to tell us stories about this, but I have not seen it myself. I was happy to read about silk here. If foreign organizations cooperate and work in the field of silk production in other provinces of Afghanistan besides Herat, it will be a good job and achievement for Afghan families. I remember that an organization used to work in the field of carpet weaving in Peshawar, because of which many Afghan families, men, and women, were engaged in carpet weaving. This way, they used to support their families. They would provide school fees and were getting a good income. Still, in many other provinces of Afghanistan, especially due to the wars, our industrial sector has been damaged, and people are forced to grow poppies. If the organizations would help, I am sure that most families would return to carpet weaving, silk making, and agriculture as before. Instead of our young people's migration to other countries to work, they will stay at home, and their schools and lives will improve. I hope that through this news website, my message will reach the donor countries, and they will support the Afghan families. Regards

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